TORTILLA FLAT, AZ — Canyon Lake is being drained. Salt River Project is emptying the lake for dam maintenance, and for now, there are no boats and no swimmers.
A few miles up the Apache Trail, the iconic town of Tortilla Flat is feeling the difference. People have been stopping here and leaving a little piece of themselves behind for more than a century. With the lake drained, fewer people are making the drive.
Six people live in Tortilla Flat, and all six work there.
"It's awesome. There are only a few people, so we're all good friends, and it makes it easy to work and live with your neighbors," said resident Michael Wells.
The town has been around since 1904. It has flooded, and it has burned, and each time, somebody built it back.
"And now here we are. And knock on wood, this stays how it is for a nice long time," said John Buber, general manager of the Superstition Saloon.
Buber started at the saloon as a server 17 years ago. Now he runs the place. He is proud of the burgers, and even prouder of the walls. Every inch is covered in dollar bills with names, dates, and little notes written on them. Buber estimates there is about half a million dollars on the walls.
"We get grandchildren come and find their grandparents' dollar, and that's really special. Just knowing that we're a part of their history too, that's really awesome," Buber said.
It takes a lot of visitors to fill walls like that. Lately, fewer dollars have been coming in.
"I would say business probably got cut in half, and that's a tough one to look at," Buber said.
Tasha Andrade has served tables at the saloon for 25 years. She remembers the last time the lake went dry.
"I think we were worried. Yeah, I think we were. But it ended up being okay," Andrade said.
So the staff did what small towns do. They made signs — 70 of them — at about $4 apiece. Slowly, people are finding their way back.
"Now we're rebounding. I think the community is embracing us, and they're saying we love Tortilla Flat as much as we love our guests. And that feels good," Buber said.
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Lisa Smith has worked at the saloon for more than 20 years. She says the drive to work is part of why she stays.
"The drive is absolutely amazing. I would do 30 minutes on this road than a freeway any day," Smith said.
For Andrade, it comes down to the people.
"It's like a family. We all get along really well. We all help each other," she said.
Canyon Lake is expected to be back in January. Until then, the view looks a little different, and Buber says that alone is worth the trip.
"If you've been here before with the lake full, come out here with it empty. It's going to change the scenery so much," he said.
Tortilla Flat is on the Apache Trail (State Route 88), northeast of Apache Junction.
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