Average: 0.22 inches
Record: 3.4 inches (1926)Temperature (degrees F):
Average High: 84.5 degrees
Lowest High: 52 degrees
Record High: 105 degrees (1989, 1992)
Average Low: 55.3 degrees
Highest Low: 77 degrees
Record Low: 35 degrees (1922)To Do List:
- Plant Citrus Trees - Young two to five year old trees transplant most successfully. Larger, older trees are more costly, harder to transplant without injury (to yourself and the tree), and suffer more from transplant shock. It will generally be three years after transplant before fruit production and that is the same whether you plant a 2 year old tree or a 10 year old tree. Go small!
- Thin deciduous fruit to 6 inch spacing. The earlier this is done after fruit set, the more size response will be expected in fruit remaining on the tree.
- Give special attention to deciduous fruit trees, provide adequate soil moisture for fruit sizing in the late April and May period.
- Apply nitrogen and zinc to pecan trees to produce normal size leaf growth and to enhance kernel development. Pecans also need more water than most other shade trees.Weeding:
April and May are the worst months. If you have done your homework in winter, you should be all right, else do your best and plan for more prevention next year. Planting:
Except for bedding plants, your summer planting should be finished now: summer really starts in May in Phoenix, so it is your very last chance. It is the best month for tropical plants like Bougainvillea, Lantana, Citrus, etc. Lawn:
Weed and feed your Bermuda grass lawn. It starts growing when the night temperature stays above sixty. Re-seed bare patches. Roses:
Remove dead flowers and fertilize roses after each bloom period for a final crop before hot weather. Citrus:
Check that all the trunk parts of citrus and young trees that are exposed to the sun are painted white. This keeps them cooler and protects them from sunburn. Use white latex paint diluted with water (1 volume white flat latex paint for 1 volume water) What to sow:
Balsam, Basil, Scarlet Runner Bean, Celosia Cockscomb, Cosmos, Dahlia, Four O'clock, Gaillardia, Gloriosa Daisy, Gourds, Hollyhocks, Kochia, Marigold, Nasturnium, Portulaca, Salvia, Shasta Daisy, Sunflower, Thunbergia, Vinca, Zinnia In the vegetable garden:
Plant cantaloupe, eggplant, peppers, pumpkin, summer squash, watermelon, and winter squash. Herbs:
- Frosty winter nipped your herb garden? It is usually safe to prune winter damage from your herb plants anytime after mid-March - perfect now, if you haven't yet taken care of this garden chore. Inspect your Basil, Lemon grass, Peppers, Mexican Tarragon and other frost sensitive plants closely, looking for new growth emerging on the lower half of the plant. Use sharp shears to cut the plant back by 1/3 to 1/2 or more, down to healthy new side shoots. Top dress the plants with new compost and water well for a fresh start.
- Small white balls of frothy foam may show up on the new growth of some of your herbs in spring, especially on Rosemary, Sage and other woody perennial herb plants. These 1/4 - 1/2 inch "balls" are the protective hiding place for the nymph of a relatively harmless insect called a "spittlebug" (Philaenus sp.) which feeds on the plant's sap and uses the foam to hide itself from predators. Spittlebugs are easily rinsed off your plants with your garden hose.
- Often in Spring, we find a Dill or Fennel plant in our garden loaded with aphids and their sticky mess. Aphids usually occur at low levels that are not very harmful to the plant - merely rinse them off with your garden hose and wash your picked herbs well before cooking with them. Insecticides are not generally recommended on herbs, since they are used for cooking. A weaker plant may become heavily infested - either pull and discard the plant, or leave it in your garden as a source of food (aphids) to attract ladybird beetles and other beneficial insects.
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