By LAMONT JONES
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
NEW YORK -- In tough economic times like these, smart fashion designers know how to make clothing look luxurious without resorting to all of the costly embellishments.
Many designers showing here at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week are doing just that in their spring-summer '09 collections. Womenswear designers in particular are relying heavily on colorful, exotic and abstract prints and manipulation of volumes of fabric, seen in billowy blouse sleeves and wide-leg, harem and drop-crotch pants, for example.
Fabrics are pintucked, pleated and draped, often with crinkly or shiny textures, gussied up with ruffles, ribbons, tiers and bows. Floral appliques have largely replaced the jeweled accents that were standard accents just a year ago, along with stacked chunky bracelets or costume statement necklaces.
Peter Som, Max Azria
Peter Som showed Monday how styles can be on-trend yet timelessly stylish, dressing up suits, dresses and other daywear with metallic-hued fabrics, lacquered linen, washed silk jacquards and fetching black-and-white cloque cotton coats and crystal-adorned dresses.
Max Azria exemplified innovative design technique in his second collection for Herve Leger. With second-skin, super-sexy dresses and swimsuits that looked like they were constructed from Ace bandages, a casual observer couldn't help but think one was watching a line based on a winning "Project Runway" challenge.
Herve Leger specializes in seductive frocks that flatter lean, curvy women with minimal body fat and no unsightly bulges. Think Rihanna, Eva Longoria, Charlize Theron. In this latest crop for spring, Azria played with peekaboo tailoring in taking a structural, almost architectural approach.
Tibi
Asian cultures, masters of rich fabrics and treatments such as embroidery, are showing more influence in American design in pieces inspired by cheongsams and obi belts. The trend was clear in the Tibi collection by designer Amy Smilovic.
She gave traditional Asian artistry a modern twist in suits, jumpsuits, tops with voluminous sleeves and dainty appliques. From mandarin and bamboo-print dresses to tan, cream and palm leaf-print jumpsuits, nearly every look featured a tasseled obi.
Miss Sixty
A trend emerging in the opposite direction is the micro-mini hemline. Shorts, skirts and rompers in some collections are cut so sparingly that buttocks can be seen jiggling underneath.
There was plenty of skimpy at Miss Sixty in the 41 young, visually arresting, street-savvy looks unveiled Sunday. Denim, cotton twill and jersey separates featured playful pattern mixes in a rainbow of colors.
Accessories were key, from crocheted berets and scarves to oversized raffia bangles, striped knee-highs, print ankle socks, graphic elastic belts, oversize sunglasses, platform peep-toe pumps and patent leather sandals and some of the week's biggest, funkiest handbags.
The girl wearing Miss Sixty next spring will be the one to watch, considering head-turning ensembles such as the coral silk trench coat with bracelet sleeves worn over a taupe graphic-print T-shirt, chocolate silk harem shorts, a smoked vinyl butterfly-print belt and tangerine, logo-emblazoned jacquard peep-toe booties.
(LaMont Jones can be reached at ljones(at)post-gazette.com.)
(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, www.scrippsnews.com.)
